Located in a unique position, straddling Montrose and Elston Avenues, Taxco Restaurant (pronounced Tass-co) maintains an entrance on either street. While the Montrose side features a full glass-paned wall offering a street view on one side and an open kitchen on the other, the Elston side has a more enclosed, private dining area. Both areas are fastidiously clean and proportionately decorated with plastic plants, Mexican blankets and a fair share of assorted knick-knacks, including a stuffed rooster on the Montrose side. The restaurant immediately evokes a homey, "everything in its place" feeling.
The fairly elaborate menu covers much more than the basics. In fact, an entire page is devoted to seafood alone, including oysters, catfish, shrimp, red snapper and a special sopa de mariscos that combines shrimp, fish, octopus, clams, lobster, crab legs and mixed vegetables. The more typical dishes are all present as well: chiles rellenos, burritos, tostadas, fajitas and carne asada. The enchiladas are especially popular, with three specific styles to choose from: enchiladas Taxco (ranchero sauce), enchiladas verdes (spicy green sauce) and the most sought-after, enchiladas en mole estilo teloloapan (tangy mole sauce).
From the perfectly spiced salsa to the exquisite mole sauce, Taxco Restaurant has definitely earned the right to the subtitle "Fine Authentic Mexican Cuisine." While the prices are a little steep for the neighborhood ($10.25 for an enchilada plate, $1.50 for additional chips and salsa after the complimentary first round), the tasty food sets this diner a cut above its competition.
Taxco also has locations in Skokie and Sycamore.
Average cost: <$10
Centerstage Reviewer: Zach Freeman