Though they recommend reservations at this praised seafood restaurant, you should get lucky if you drop in on a Monday or Tuesday night. You'll understand the reason for the crowds after entering the dining room illuminated with hypnotic blues and gigantic dangling tin fish. Choose an oversized cushy booth or a wood table to settle into and enjoy cold starters like Cuban black bean and shrimp salad or seared sesame tuna, and hot starters like steamed Canadian mussels or baked clams casino.

For an entree, get ready to choose, choose and choose some more. First select your fish: The $14.50-$19.95 options include Ecuadorian mahi-mahi, Virginia striped sea bass and yellowfin tuna. Next choose your preparation (blackened, sauteed or cornmeal crusted, to name a few) and finally pick your side among poached leeks, asparagus, brown sugar glazed Asian greens, roasted garlic polenta and more. Steaks, chicken and lobster, crab and shrimp dishes are also offered. With an amazingly attentive staff, this place is certainly worth the drive.

Centerstage Reviewer: Shelly Burton