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in Andersonville or Berwyn on the Red line

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Tomboy

View Map5402 N. Clark St., Chicago
Tel: (773) 907-0636
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Editorial Review of Tomboy

If you ever find yourself in Andersonville, you'll notice there's no end to the food-eating options. In fact, the only problem you might run into come supper-time is deciding exactly what kind of food it is you want, be it Italian, Mediterranean, American or otherwise. If you can't decide on a single cuisine, there's always Tomboy, which, as its name suggests, rebels against restaurant norms by offering several.

The food is expensive, but not outlandishly so, with entrees typically ranging from $16-$25. If you're in the mood for something exotic, try French dishes like the escargot or ostrich en brioche. After all, how many times can you tell your Grandpa you consumed the corpse of a giant pink bird for dinner? Or, if you're training for the Olympics and need to get your carb-count up, try something Italian, maybe the penne, the spaghettini or the bowtie pasta. Then there's the seafood, freshly caught (relatively, anyway) and prepared to your liking. And, if you want something universal in its deliciousness, sink your teeth into the tenderest of all meats, the fillet mignon. Encrusted with a melange of spices and covered in gorgonzola cream sauce, this sumptuous meat feast is tempting to eat in just one gulp. We know what you're thinking: "But what happens if it gets stuck halfway to that place I call my stomach?" Then hurry up and wash it down with one of 27 different types of wine or 19 different 'Tomboy'-tinis, such as the apple pie a la mode.

There's no doubt that Tomboy is eclectically unusual in its combinations, right down to the visual aesthetic—a hodgepodge of classy red curtains, brown brick walls and industrial ceilings amid dimly atmospheric lighting—and an ambiance that includes music by Duran Duran, Dolly Parton and Otis Redding, but that's its undeniable and ever-present charm. Besides, after you taste the food, you won't even care where you're eating it.

Centerstage Reviewer: Benjamin Andrew Moore

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Hours

5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday

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chicago

chicago, metromix