Trattoria D.O.C. is the younger sibling to Lincoln Square's Pizza D.O.C., with more of a focus on non-pizza selections and, ironically, more varieties of pizza to choose from. The common initials stand for "Denominazione de Origine Controllata," the mark placed on bona fide bottles of Italian wine and a clue into the level of authenticity the owners strive for in their food.

Before indulging in one of the wood oven-baked pizzas, try the popular tricolore insalate, a (surprise!) tri-colored salad with arugula, radicchio, endive, beets, parmigiano shavings, lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil. The 30-odd pizzas are broken down into three groupings (vegetarian, fish and meat) and range from the simple margherita to the somewhat intimidating pizza mare, with tomato sauce, mozzarella, baby octopus, shrimp, squid, mussels and clams. The 12-inch thin crust pies are served uncut, and while you can choose to have them sliced, your menu warns you that pre-slicing pizza makes it soggy and cold.

If you're not in the mood for pizza, the petto di pollo alla sarda, chicken breast with asparagus, scamorza cheese and pancetta in a port wine sauce, is a delicious option. For something a little lighter, try the highly acclaimed linguine all'aragosta, linguine sauteed with lobster meat, cherry tomatoes, basil, garlic, parsley and white wine.

Centerstage Reviewer: Laura Brown