Troha's may be Chicago's oldest shrimp house, but the sign on its facade read, "A stein of beer and a bowl of chili for 5 cents," when it opened in 1920. When chili meat became scare during the Depression, Troha's had to serve smoked and fresh fish instead. And after a 1935 trip to New Orleans, the Troha family got hooked on shrimp and permanently deleted chili and beer from its menu.

Though the take-out restaurant's Little Village locale has evolved into one of the largest Mexican enclaves outside of Mexico, Troha's proves some things never change. Run by third and fourth generation members of the Troha family, the restaurant's interior crawls with dusty nautical bric-a-brac, including an oar with fading blue paint, a model of a multi-masted sailing ship and conch shells.

Over 80 years, the Troha's have perfected the golden, lightly-battered, fried shrimp, which are some of the best in Chicago. If you're not fond of shrimp, try the fried chicken made true to its 1959 recipe. Its special ingredient remains a secret, but here's a hint: The woman who runs the cash register has the word "love" tattooed on her hand.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant