Popular with theater-goers and business associates alike, ristorante we epitomizes the hotel chain's hipness without offending those who'd prefer to kick back with some cognac. Its 55-seat, high-ceiling space features strong linear elements and uncluttered tabletops set off by velvet banquettes, inviting you to settle in for the evening.

Both groups enjoy their wine, as evidenced from the massive list of vino that's creatively sorted according to food pairing (such as "steak wine"). The staff's thorough knowledge of the menu extends from the drink to the dinner: They're unanimously persistent in their recommendation of the signature garlic bread, and rightfully so. The appetizer sits in a creamy pool of gorgonzola funduta, and this Tuscan steakhouse does it better than any other Italian restaurant in the city.

Chef Michael Hazen pays homage to the steakhouse tradition with his hand-cut, USDA Black Angus classics like the 8-ounce filet mignon and the 14-ounce New York strip. The 26-ounce bistecca alla fiorentina recipe was carted over from the motherland, as was that for the 16-ounce New York strip steak vesuvio. Side with garlicky spinach or grilled asparagus with shaved parmesan for a satisfying meal.

Other highlights include the salmon saltimbocca with sage, prosciutto, wilted arugula and tapenade vinaigrette. Pastas precede the meat course, and the three-cheese tortellini comes with a rich braised veal and osso buco sauce. Prices skirt the high end, a fact that doesn't faze the expense-account-happy guests. With that in mind, cap off the night with another grappa.

Centerstage Reviewer: Robin Wright