Centerstage - Chicago's Original City Guide

Articles Sections >> Arts + Words Bars + Clubs Dating Festivals Fitness Food Lifestyle Music Theater Travel + Tourism Who's Who > View All Arts and Words Food and Drink Music

Shin Thompson

Bonsoiree Cafe's chef fishes out the freshest fare from the sea.

Friday Jul 06, 2007.     By Michael Nagrant

Who's Who Feed

For most Chicago chefs, "fresh from the sea" means an overnight Fed Ex package from a coastal fisherman. For Chef Shin Thompson of Bonsoiree Cafe and Delicacies, it means the fish is still flopping.

At the age of 13 while visiting Japan, Thompson found himself whisked away with his uncle to a remote mountain restaurant for dinner in a traditional tatami room. "The chef came out with this huge fish," says Thompson. "It was still moving, and he butchered it, cubing the meat, but leaving it on the body." Halfway through the feast Thompson realized the fish's body was still moving.

Inspired by the craftsmanship, Thompson then knew then that he would not only become a chef but one who's adamantly committed to fresh cooking. Along with his partner, Kurt Chenier, Thompson delivers exquisitely crafted food at value prices—three courses for $24. He purees his soups through strainers to a fine velvet texture and slices his accessory vegetables in a perfectly square micro-confetti. Just try the mango mint salmon; with its bright guava emulsion, it melts on the tongue like a blotter of fine sushi-grade acid.

What do you wish you could change/pickle about the Chicago restaurant/food scene?
I've noticed a huge market: wine lovers that are genuinely excited to pair their own wines with our food without spending a premium on wine service. For this reason we have no intention of obtaining a liquor license, and I even have ideas of opening another BYOB with even higher end food.

What would your last meal be?
Nothing beats sweet diver sea scallops in the shell and fresh lobster tail with melted butter.

What Chicago chef would you be most willing to share a kitchen with?
A Moroccan chef by the name of Anthony Khattabi. He serves incredible, never-before-experienced flavor combinations with contemporary upscale presentations. He's been a mentor for both me and my partner Kurt. He's been working on a secret project for more than three years. Stay tuned.

What's the can't-miss dish at Bonsoiree?
Pan-roasted barramundi with pink peppercorn butter, grilled asparagus risotto cake and summer plum chutney.

What should we know about Bonsoiree that we probably don't?
Kurt and I began an illegal catering operation out of our homes two years ago. The original idea was to expand our catering operation into a legitimate business, but we had no intentions of doing dinner. Dinner started as a side gig in our storefront. It was a sad beginning. Some nights there were only 2 or 3 tables. Recently, word has gotten out, and our dinner business has been so busy that we've had to turn so many people away.

Five for Frying is a weekly Food Feature that asks one great chef five fun questions.