Chef Jose Garces of
Mercat a la Planxa, a new tapas restaurant in the Blackstone hotel, started his burgeoning restaurant empire in Philadelphia (Amada, Tinto), but his heart lies in Chicago. Growing up on the Northwest Side, he worked as a lifeguard at Foster Beach, tended the grill at a defunct Italian beef stand, and attended culinary school at Kendall College. "I'm a huge Bears and Cubs fan," says Garces. "When I got on the plane to come here, I had this feeling of just going home after so many years."
At Mercat, Garces redefines the traditional tapas experience by celebrating international culinary influences, with dishes like silky, Italian-style agnolotti with braised rabbit. He also injects the menu with luxury ingredients, like truffle oil and grilled prime beef. But his most revolutionary move may just be his devotion to authenticity, which includes serving deep-fried peppers, drizzled with a toasty roast almond and paprika-infused salbitxada sauce, and head-on briny shrimp that's simply salted and grilled.
Which reigns supreme, the Philly cheesesteak or Italian beef?
There's really no comparison. Italian beef and fast food in general is such a Chicago staple. You know with Phillyites, I might get some crap about it, but I personally think the cheesesteak is overrated—strictly from a culinary perspective—the way they cook the meat. I tend to feel like it's almost poached. They use good quality rib eye, but I'm not crazy about the consistency.
Your mentor is Chef Douglas Rodriguez of DeLaCosta. Do you guys have a friendly rivalry?
It's totally friendly. I have dinner at his house when I go to Miami. Whatever happens happens. I'm gonna do my best, and he's gonna do his best. Friendship will always supersede any rivalry. I'm indebted to him. He got me into the higher end of cooking.
What's the best Chicago-related advice you've ever given or received?
Take advantage of all of the different ethnic neighborhoods and cuisines. There is great Mexican, Polish, German, etc.; don't be afraid to explore neighborhoods and to seek out ethnic and authentic food.
What's your favorite hidden gem?
The Violet Hour in Wicker Park has inspirational cocktails.
If I were to come to your neighborhood, where would you insist I visit?
Definitely check out Pilsen or Little Village for great Mexican.
What would your last meal be?
My last meal would start out Ecuadorian-style: ceviche, arepas, humitas, empanadas—any of those, in no particular order. That would be followed by a 16-ounce 28-day-aged prime rib with truffle whipped potatoes, creamed spinach and sauteed porcinis, accompanied by a Tempranillo - Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Valbuena, 2001.
I read that you're interested in opening a Latin Thai concept?
It's been on the board for years. I think it'll be more Southeast Asian and Latin American and Caribbean. There's a lot of cross-over in cilantro, green chilies and certain rices. It would be a collaboration with a really talented Asian chef.
What do you eat/drink before/after a shift?
I have two double espressos before a shift, and a shot of absinthe after a shift.
I heard you created a business model for a tapas restaurant as a class project at Kendall. How does theory differ from reality?
Reality is a lot different. Reality is not only being a chef, but being a business owner responsible for employees and customer service. Until you own your own business, you can’t begin to fathom how detail oriented it is.
I was at Mercat on opening night and the service was spot on. That's almost unheard of on the first day?
You really only get one opportunity in this business to make a first impression. If you're not ready by day one, you really shouldn't open your doors.
What's the can't-miss dish at Mercat?
Don't miss the roast suckling pig. It must be ordered 48 hours in advance. Delicious.
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